The Ayurvedic perspective on skin and Ayurvedic skincare is multifaceted and fascinating. Like many other topics, the timeless ancient wisdom of Ayurveda is just as relevant as ever in helping people in the modern world to optimize the health of their skin and deal with imbalances in a truly holistic way. In this article we will explore the skin’s many connections to the different organ systems and tissues, as well as its relationship to the three doshas, in order to empower readers to gain a deeper understanding of root causes of imbalance and pathways to healing. We will conclude the article with an exploration of important themes in Ayurvedic skincare such as nutrition and herbal allies as they pertain specifically to skin health.

Beauty (and health!) is more than skin deep 

The Sanskrit word tvak is used to describe the body’s outer covering and one of the largest organs in the body, the skin. The skin is seen by Ayurveda to be more than seven layers deep. The topmost layer of the skin is connected with the Rasa dhatu or lymph tissue. The subsequent six deeper layers are connected with the other dhatus or tissues; Rakta (blood), Mamsa (muscle), Meda (adipose), Asthi (bone), Majja (nerve) and Shukra/Arthava (reproductive tissues). The heath of the skin and these respective layers is thus inextricably connected with that of the digestive fire; Agni which nourishes and influences all the deeper tissues of the body; in this way, the skin is understood to be a mirror.

Since the Rasa and Rakta dhatus are represented in the most superficial and therefore visible layers of the skin, these are often the tissues we look to first when investigating imbalance of the skin.

From a more esoteric perspective the skin is seen as the point of contact between the physical inner and outer world. It is not seen as purely a barrier but rather as a living, breathing, digesting part of an individual’s organism. The skin has the ability to drink prana (vital force or breath) directly from the outside environment as some advanced Yogis have realized and it contains a digestive fire of its own; giving it the ability to digest substances that are applied to it such as herbal pastes and oils.

Following an Ayurvedic skincare routine

With regards to the health of the first two dhatus which are most evidently represented in the skin, nutrition and hydration are of utmost importance. The food we eat and liquids we drink are processed by the digestive tract and directly enter these first two tissues. Thus the skin becomes a mirror of imbalances in digestion. For example, insufficient fluid intake leads to dry and dehydrated skin, while inflammation in the GI tract can lead to excess heat; eruptions and inflammation in the skin. 

Skin hydration tip

For plump and smooth skin, drink a cup of warm water first thing in the morning and sip room temp or warmer to half your body weight in ounces. For example if you weigh 120 lbs, drink 60 oz water per day. 

When the digestive system is impaired, undigested food can accumulate in the GI tract causing toxins or Ama. These toxins, like the imbalances of Vata, Pitta and Kapha doshas can also spread to the first two dhatus causing clogging of the pores and imbalances such as acne. Aside from proper eating habits to ensure optimal digestion, cleansing of the lower digestive tract is of utmost importance within Ayurvedic skincare.

Skin clarity tip

Use a virecana (Ayurvedic bowel support) such as Triphala, Bhumyamalaki or Sat Isabgol to keep the bowels regular and keep the skin clear. Consult with an Ayurvedic practitioner to determine which virecana suits you and which dosage is appropriate.

What is Ayurvedic skincare?

Constitutionally, Vata, Pitta and Kapha individuals will share similar types of skin, which we will explore in detail. As such, and as with all Ayurvedic medicine, Ayurveda for skin tends to take an individualized approach, based on the understanding of the individual’s tendencies rather than a one-size fits all. The best Ayurvedic skincare is the one that suits the individual’s constitution and present state of imbalance.

Here, the concept of the three doshas enters the picture. Within Ayurveda and Ayurvedic skincare, all matter, including skin is understood to be composed of the five great elements; Space, Air, Fire, Water and Earth.

Pairs of these elements form the three doshas; biological energies that govern the anatomy and all physiological processes of the body. Vata dosha is made up of Space and Air elements and is cold, dry, rough and mobile in quality. Pitta dosha is made up of Fire and Water elements and is hot, sharp, pungent and oily. Kapha is made up of Earth and Water and is smooth, heavy and thick. Each individual has a constitutional tendency to one or two of these doshas, which also influences the quality of their skin and their tendency to imbalance.

Vata skin

Vata skin has a tendency to be dry, rough, and thin. Because of these qualities, it can tend to form wrinkles more easily, and can be cold to the touch. It can also be particularly sensitive to wind and cold. Because Vata imbalance tends to create dark discoloration; Vata can also manifest as dark pigmentation and dark patches.

When working with Vata type skin, we want to bring the opposite qualities to balance out excesses of cold, dry, dark and rough. The emphasis is on warmth, oleation and hydration both inside and out! Overuse of astringent products such as toners and over cleansing of the skin can perpetuate dryness and other Vata imbalances.

Products that incorporate heavier oils such as sesame oil and nourishing herbs can be particularly useful in Vata skin.

Pitta skin
Because of the innate qualities of Pitta, Pitta skin has a tendency to be oily and has a tendency to be reddish or rosy. It can also be warm/hot to touch and can be prone to inflammations such as rash and acne. Typically, Pitta types  may also feel as though they are particularly sensitive to being exposed to sun and heat. They may get moles and freckles more easily.

When working with Pitta type skin, the best course of action is to balance those hot, oily qualities with astringency and cooling. The products we use on Pitta skin should support detoxification of the skin. Having ingredients like aloe or charcoal and different types of clay will help to absorb the excess oil that is on the face. Incorporating products that will nourish the face and rejuvenate it will help the sensitivity of pitta skin which does well with products that will pull excess oil and replenish it with healthy nutrients. 

Products that incorporate rose, hibiscus, aloe, charcoal will work well. Pitta skin can work well with a light, cooling oil like coconut but could benefit from using more water-based moisturizers.

Kapha skin

Kapha skin is usually well-hydrated, supple, and has an evenness throughout the whole face. It is cooler to the touch, pale and with a natural glossiness. It can be likened to that of a beautiful marble statue. The skin itself will be thicker and more resilient in nature than Vata and Pitta skin. 

When working with Kapha skin, we want to think about tonification and mild cleansing and detoxification as Kapha can tend towards stagnation and accumulation because of its heavy and static qualities. A little astringency will go a long way for Kapha-type skin. 

Incorporating lighter oils such as safflower, vitamin e and jojoba are all wonderful to nourish the natural consistency of kapha skin. Kapha skin can handle slightly more abrasive material than Pitta and Vata, so natural exfoliators like almond and chickpea flour as well as lepas can work well. 

External applications

As we have seen, Ayurvedic skincare begins in the GI tract and overall health of the internal systems. However, Ayurveda does also offer a wide range of external or topical supports to healthy, glowing skin. As a general rule, Ayurveda only uses organic, 100% natural products on the skin. If you wouldn’t eat it, don’t put it on your skin!

For moisturizing the skin, Ayurvedic skincare recommends oils such as sesame, sunflower or coconut depending on the doshic qualities of the skin. Many Ayurvedic oils are ‘herbalized’ containing the amazing properties of Ayurvedic herbs like Manjistha, Sandalwood, Neem and Turmeric as well as other substances like milk and pearl extract to promote skin healing and radiance.

For cleansing and exfoliating of the skin, Ayurveda employs flours such as Almond and Chickpea as well as specialized herbal mixes that are gentle on the skin whilst scrubbing away accumulations and impurities.

For toning the face and tightening pores, Ayurveda employs the use of herbal waters and hydrosols such as astringent Rose or Jasmine water.

In addition to these components of a daily Ayurvedic skincare routine, occasional masks and facial massage can be used to promote healthy circulation and keep the skin supple. Marma point stimulation on the face can support the release of toxins and relax the facial muscles.